Saturday, July 08, 2006

"Feets" of Strength - Bonds Traverse - July 7, 2006

The Bonds traverse is arguably the premier hike in the White Mountains. Its remoteness as it travels right through the heart of the Pemigewasset Wilderness, up and down over 5 peaks, assures unmatched views and a sense of isolation. Because of the hiking distances involved the Bonds (West Bond, Bond and Bondcliff) are usually done as a two-day overnight hike. We decided it would be easier to train our bodies and minds to hike 20 miles than to train ourselves to be backpackers.

We were not sure as we began the hike if we were going to do the Bonds in two out and back hikes of about 18 miles each or one traverse of about 20 miles. We planned today's hike as an out and back as there was the logistics of scheduling a ride from one trail head to the other (about 45 minutes) and the fear that if we couldn't complete the traverse we would be hung-up without a car. We were up at 4am and at the Zealand trailhead at 6:30. We made remarkable time for the first two legs of the journey to Zeacliff and excellent time for the up and down walk over Zealand Mountain to Guyot Mountain.

We were hearing the "greensong" today and we were at Mt. Guyot (7.3 miles) by 10:45. Given our excellent time, the fine weather and that we did not want to return via the up and down of the Twinway we then decided to opt for the traverse. The views began at Guyot and did not end until we dropped off the edge of Bondcliff for the return. For all of us the hype lived up to and exceeded the reality. This was the most awe inspiring hike we had ever gone on. The scenes were so memorable that, like a song tune that is stuck in your head, they keep playing over and over in my minds eye. If we had to choose a favorite view it would be West Bond. Its little dramatic perch gave you intimate 360 degree views. With the wind howling though standing up was a bit unnerving.

The last miles of this long day were a bit beyond what our limits had been and we all grew as a result. Kate and Jordan accomplished a feat of both physical and psychological endurance that very few adults let alone children can dream of. And at the end of the day we learned a little lesson about trust. Because we had not planned to do the traverse, our car was still ¾ of an hour away and there was no cell-phone service at the parking lot. At the Bondcliff/Wilderness intersection we made a wrong turn adding about a ½ mile to our hike. Due to that wrong turn we walked the Wilderness trail with a solo hiker who was finishing an out and back Bonds hike. He was a cheerful young man who had followed his dream by moving from Connecticut to the Whites. He offered to drive us to a spot where we could get cell-phone reception to call the hiker's taxi. Then we realized, why not offer him the taxi fee to drive us to our car? He was glad to accept and off we went. Incredibly we were back to our car just before nightfall. A perfect day in every way. Peaks #35, 36, 37 and 38. (Guyot is not counted because it is not 200 feet above the ridge).

Distance 20.2 miles; Climb 3750 ft; Elevation: Zealand 4260 ft; Guyot 4580ft; West Bond 4540 ft; Bond 4698 ft; Bondcliff 4265 ft.

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